Garden Tips

Creating your own garden oasis in the Pacific Northwest

When starting or improving a garden, it is easy to get overwhelmed by all the options! Take a breath and have a good sit in your space, then:

1. Start by defining your garden philosophy and mindset. Do you want a minimalist garden, a lush and colorful one, a vegetable garden, a wildlife-friendly garden, or a combination of these? What are your priorities: aesthetics, functionality, sustainability, or relaxation? What is your budget, available space, and amount of time and energy you can invest in gardening?

2. Plan your garden design and layout based on your needs and wants. Consider factors such as sun exposure, soil type, drainage, privacy, and views. Decide on the main features, such as paths, borders, focal points, seating areas, water features, and lighting. Choose plants that suit your garden style, climate, and maintenance level. Mix and match colors, textures, and heights to create interest and balance.

3. Create a garden that appeals to your senses and emotions. Choose plants that have fragrances, textures, and shapes that you love. Add elements that stimulate your sight, hearing, touch, taste, and smell, such as bird feeders, wind chimes, water features, herbs, and fruits. Use colors that evoke the mood you want, such as calming blues and greens, energizing yellows and reds, or soothing pastels. If you are adding hardscaping, decks, paths or walls, think about the materials you’d prefer to see out your window everyday. It is worth it to invest in quality stone and other sustainable materials; it will increase the value of your property by a surprising amount!

4. Make your garden a reflection of your personality and values. Use decor, artwork, and accessories that express your creativity and interests. Choose materials and techniques that align with your sustainability goals, such as recycled or repurposed items, organic fertilizers, and native or drought-resistant plants. Invite wildlife by providing food, shelter, and nesting sites, and avoid using pesticides and herbicides that harm beneficial insects and birds.

5. Enjoy your garden from different perspectives and at different times of the day and year. Create seating areas that offer different views and moods, such as a sunny bench, a shady nook, or a cozy corner. Use lighting to highlight your favorite plants and features and extend your garden experience into the night. Plant for all seasons, so you can enjoy the beauty and diversity of your garden throughout the year.

Image furnished via Unsplashed: Ries Bosch @ries_bosch

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Image furnished via Unsplashed : Aniston Grace @anistongrace

Image furnished via Unsplashed : Martina Jorden @martinaj

What you will see out of the window depends on your garden layout and views. If you have a window facing your garden, you can design your garden to maximize the visual impact from that perspective. You can create a focal point, such as a statue, a sculpture, a water feature, or a flowering tree, that draws the eye and adds interest. You can also use plant textures, colors, and heights to create layers and depth, and frame your views with borders or hedges. If you have a garden that is visible from several windows or angles, you can create a cohesive and harmonious design that looks good from all perspectives.

Image furnished via Unsplashed : Rob Wingate @robwingate

This is just the beginning, I highly suggest you take your time selecting the right plants for your space. If that is too daunting, I am here for you. I offer garden walk through consultations where we will explore many options for your space. Send me a message and we can schedule the initial hour consultation to get started!

-Alison

Gardening with Deer Friends

So cute and demure…

but often a plant collector’s worst nightmare when they decimate your favorites indiscriminately!

Living with deer in the garden can be a challenge, but it's possible to create a garden that is both beautiful and deer-resistant… key word here: RESISTANT.

This spring I dug up and moved several roses to the bottom of the hill. The weather was warming so I was to watering more frequently, admiring the tough, transplanted roses. I saw the drastically defoliated roses the next day and I was shocked. These are some pokey roses! I’ll have you know they are still kicking with minimal foliage, but I have taken no measures to protect or prevent them since they were feasted on. I think I have resigned myself to tip #5, it has been okay allowing them space to eat what they might find delectable to protect my more coveted plants.

Here are some tips:

1. Choose deer-resistant plants: Flat out, some plants are more deer-resistant than others. Start with research deer-resistant plants for your gardening area/zone. Some examples include lavender, rosemary, wild ginger, sage, and yarrow. These specific examples all have extremely fragrant (some pungent) foliage, which is a great clue to start your search while shopping for plants at a nursery.


2. Install deer fencing: A physical barrier like a fence can help keep deer out of your garden. Make sure the fence is at least 8 feet tall and buried at least a foot into the ground to prevent deer from jumping over or digging under it. Ultimately, fencing is the most effective method, however it can be cost prohibitive and impede migratory wildlife, which may negatively impact your gardening environment.


3. Use deer repellents: There are many deer repellents on the market, including sprays, granules, and electronic devices. Some are more effective than others, so do your research before choosing one. For new plantings in a deer path, I find spritzing the foliage with water then sprinkling on cayenne pepper works well. You need to make reapplications after any rainfall. Trust me, they will sneak right in and take a test bite every so often.


4. Plant in raised beds or containers: Planting your garden in raised beds or containers can make it more difficult for deer to access your plants.


5. Create a distraction: Planting a separate area of your garden with plants that deer love, such as clover or kale, can help distract them from your other plants. This is my favorite method as I have seen several positive cases. I have come to call some of them my sacrificial deer plants.


6. Practice good garden hygiene: Deer are attracted to gardens with lots of weeds and overgrown plants. Keep your garden tidy and well-maintained to discourage deer from entering.


7. Be patient: Living with deer in the garden requires patience and persistence. It may take some trial and error to find the best strategies for your particular situation.

Inviting Wildlife to your Garden

I am obsessed with making lists! Here are my tips for creating a welcoming habitat to encourage native creatures to your garden:

1. Plant native plants: Native plants are adapted to the local climate and provide food and shelter for local wildlife and birds.


2. Install bird feeders and birdbaths: Providing a source of food and water will attract a variety of bird species to your garden.

  • You can purchase or make your own suet or seed mixes; I have found the Tanagers and finches love sunflower and thistle seeds.

  • If you choose to feed your local birds, please pay close attention to cleaning their feeders and stop providing food immediately if you see any signs of illness.

  • Simply having a birdbath with fresh water will draw many birds without needing to put out bird feeders, however, the most colorful birds tend to go after the suet cakes and fresh fruit.

  • Always be sure you provide fresh, clean water. The more creatures you attract, the more often you’ll need to dump, wipe down, and clean the birdbath.

  • Hummingbird feeders are an easy way to attract many hummers. To make your own EASY nectar, stir 4 parts water to 1 part sugar. No need to boil according to Audubon, the priority should be cleaning and maintaining the feeders.


3. Create a habitat: Provide shelter for wildlife by planting shrubs and trees, installing birdhouses and bat boxes, and leaving piles of leaves and branches for small animals to hide in.

4. Provide nesting sites: Install birdhouses and nesting boxes for different bird species. Research the specific needs of each species to ensure the proper placement and design of the houses.


5. Avoid pesticides: Chemical pesticides can harm wildlife and birds. Try natural alternatives like companion planting, using insect-repelling plants, and handpicking pests. If you have a question, don’t hesitate to shoot me an e-mail, I’d love to provide some alternative solutions.



6. Always remember to maintain a clean environment: Keep feeders, birdbaths, and your garden clean and free of too much debris to prevent the spread of disease and attract undesirable wildlife.


7. I’ll never tire suggesting this tip- Educate yourself: Learn about the local wildlife and their needs. Grab an identification book, join a local birdwatching club, visit your local nursery and as a Certified Professional Horticulturist. The more you learn, you’ll find it easy to make informed choices about your gardening practices and attract even more wildlife to your garden.

Until next time,

Alison










Longer days, spring on the horizon, there's plants at the grocery store, when should I buy them?

Like the winter predictions, El Nino/cold fronts have been ever present with snow and freezes through January and February. The only saving grace are the daytime warmer temperatures. We all have spring fever and I know how hard it to say no to new plants, any time of year. We all see them, the colorful frillies at the grocery and hardware stores. But is it worth the impulse buy, or is that plant gunna die??

If you have the itch to add something new to your garden (let’s be honest, I’m not the one that will stop you!), I’m working on my guide to successfully purchase a long lasting plant in winter and early spring. It is a tough time to plant some tender annuals/perennials with the lower temperatures and some are incorrectly labeled with their hardiness. What’s worse is many wholesalers take liberties when writing plant tag/label descriptions. I find many with completely inaccurate information, it’s disheartening and downright confusing. This can lead to buying a plant we think can handle winter temperatures and it just might not make it! There’s two ways to look at it- 1: take the risk, buy the plant, you’ll survive even if the plant doesn’t OR 2: pick something tried and true and have repeat flowering for years to come.

Here’s a list of some fun, hardy plants usually available early spring at stores that will provide an instant bump of color to fill containers or garden beds:

Some of these flowers may suffer some wilting during long periods of freezing temperatures and snow, most will bounce back

  • Hellebores

  • Hardy double primroses

  • forced bulbs like:

    • iris reticulata (flowers may be damaged in snow)

    • crocus

    • daffodil (i love tete e tete)

    • tulip (wild varieties, look for the word naturalize)

    • hyacinth

    • fritillaria

  • anemone

  • azalea shrub

  • pansy (treat as annual)

  • common primrose


My list of picky early spring plants

  • florist’s cyclamen

  • ranunculus (I tend to treat them as an annual)

  • fuchsias

  • mini roses

Now, I know I need to add more to this list, but it stopped raining a bit ago and I need to head outside and mulch the flowerbeds before all the daffodils and tulips take over!

I’ll be back

Alison


Preparing for the Pacific Northwest Winter

It is fun to mark annual events such as the Winter Solstice (in a few weeks), but it is more accurate as a gardener to think in terms of meteorological factors. Today marks the first day of meteorological winter, which is measured in three month cycles based on common patterns in temperature. I read a good article that I’d like to share - it has great information about the Seattle and surrounding area regarding this year’s high rainfall surpassing records - 5th wettest since 1945. Click here to read the Meteorological Winter article

With that said, the NOAA declared La Niña is back which predicts a pattern of a wetter and cooler than average winter. That means… SNOW? Maybe.

So, what do we need to do to prepare our garden for the winter season?

Tuck your tender plants closer to the house, mulch if you are concerned about hardiness. Loss happens, but that is the risk we take when picking out plants with zone denial brains! I have some plants that are more temperamental in the wetter areas of my garden, if you are concerned about Dahlia tubers or plants that are similar to “mush and muck out”, I would suggest to pull them and store dry.

I like to leave seedheads on plants as long as I can for the wildlife, such as Echinacea. Make sure all the herbaceous perennials, like hostas, peony, bleeding heart, and more are cleaned up- these tend to die back in the fall, but if you haven’t had the chance there’s no time like today to get out there and finish clean-up! Some perennials are just starting to feel the chill, like hardy fuchsias, and I wait till I’m ready to cut them back, sometimes leaving F. magellanica’s peely bark on display.

When it comes to leaf litter and raking, I tend to blow of the leaves on lawns and paths, raking some parts in the garden, but leaving a little bit here and there as a natural mulch for plants I’m temperature concerned about. I clean up the beds in early spring and add compost right when the tulip and daffodil bulbs really start emerging.

Winter is a wonderful time to prune most dormant deciduous trees and shrubs. It is easier to see what you need to remove when the leaves are gone! Always start by removing any dead, dying, diseased, and crossing branches (this can be done ANY time of year). Research the tree first before making additional cuts. Some plants are practically untouchable and will sucker and water sprout on you while others will do the same if you remove too much. The common rule of thumb is no more than 1/3 of branches for shrubs and small trees, and 1/4 for large trees. I would lean more conservatively when it comes to pruning unless I know the specific plant can handle it. Some shrubs and trees can be coppiced to the ground, like a royal purple smoke bush; You sacrifice blooms, but in return, its suckers reach for the sky! Think before you prune and don’t wait till late winter/early spring. The sap begins to flow before the buds emerge, and you run the risk of water sprouts!

If it does snow, I like to do a garden walkabout and brush off any snow that might weigh down any branches on small trees and shrubs. Just thinking of snow is making me excited!!

Till next time

Alison


Autumn is here

Tomorrow marks the Autumnal Equinox and you know what that means—- summer is “officially” over. The days are getting shorter, darker, cooler, and more rain is on its way. I am appreciating these last sunny days. We had a torrential downpour on Sunday and it was a sight to see and hear- I know my plants appreciated the deep watering they finally received. They have been such troopers during this dry summer season.

The great news is: Fall is a wonderful time for garden projects!

Divide your peonies, astilbe, and other clumping perennials if they are encroaching your precious garden space. I have a few Itoh peonies that are massive and I not only want to divide them— but move them to an even sunnier spot.

Plant trees and shrubs now, they will have a month or two to set and establish new roots before the winter cold arrives and most plants go dormant.

I also like to give my houseplants some extra care. I wipe down their leaves (which can get covered in dust over time) and a shot of fertilizer for a boost of nutrition. These houseplants are in pots! They need to be fed! The soil they are planted in is now definitely depleted of nutrients. It is in your best interest (and the plants) to give them some food on a regular basis.

Mulch/compost are another amazing addition to any garden or container. Organic material is the #1 best thing you can add to your garden soil. Not only to feed the plants but improve the soil texture overall. If you’re living in the Pacific Northwest, you may have heard glacier till- there’s big rocks, sand, clay - it can present you with many problems. It can feel quite limiting at times when observing all the shallow rooted shrubs and trees I’ve planted, struggling to grow deeper roots. Native plants have adapted and simply do a lot better in these areas. I live on top of a hill, surrounded by Doug firs, western red cedars, hemlocks, big leaf maples and alders. Anything I plant has to compete with these mature tree roots. For example, western red cedars have very fibrous, shallow (8’) roots that leap at any chance to form a dense network underground. I have created several beds and digging into the ground is no easy task. It is even more important to follow the common rule of thumb: dig the hole for a new plant twice and deep and twice as wide. I go a little bit deeper and wider, only mix in compost with the native soil, scratch up the rootball of the plant, then nicely tuck the plant in its new home, making sure there aren’t any giant air pockets, top dress with more compost, water in well and deeply. Always remember—- for plant success, start with the SOIL. OM is the “secret” - add compost ANY time of year. There is no wrong time to improve your soil. It’s best to get started right away.

Let’s all take advantage of the fair weather when we have the opportunity!

Happy Gardening

Alison

It's the end of August... houseplants and you

… And you know what that means, Fall is fast approaching. I am hoping for an extended summer throughout September! Let’s keep this weather (in the low 70s) going!

What is happening in the garden you ask?

Consistent checking of water, moving sprinklers around in areas with new plantings, cutting back roses, mowing the lawn, picking tomatoes from the veggie garden, digging up and moving things around (I know! BAD!), and buying new plants. I just purchased a Tea Camellia, Camellia sinensis, from Valley Nursery in Poulsbo. This plant is actually used to make true black and green tea, depending on whether you want to cure for longer or just pick and dry. I also picked up a Fuyu persimmon (it had 4 fruits on it, but one fell off :( sad panda) from Bainbridge Gardens. I potted it up to a larger pot, but it came in a 1 gal pot so it felt like a great deal!

Come to think of it, Now is a good time to spruce up your houseplants. Wipe the leaves to remove dust. The dust can collect so much in my house! This helps keep the leaves pores clear for gaseous exchange. I’m sure it helps improve photosynthesis.

Refresh your houseplants by upgrading the pot they live in. This introduces new soil and space for the roots to grow and be happy. First, when selecting a pot ensure it has proper drainage with a hole in the bottom. Fill the pot using all one soil medium. Do not place rocks or other soil media because that can create drainage problems and provides less space for the roots to grow. Scratch up the root ball when transplanting and heavily water in when you’re finished potting. The first watering in is the most important. It helps settle the soil and remove air pockets. It is best to make sure water is dripping out the bottom of the pot to ensure proper hydration.

Another easy way to jazz up your houseplant game is to fertilize. I use Jack’s houseplant food, which is a water soluble fertilizer that dissolves super fast making it quick to mix. I must admit, I am not the most consistent at applying fertilizer but for any houseplant living in a pot, it requires food! It is wise to mark on your calendar when you feed your plants so you can reference when you need to fertilize again.

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